And on to Paisley

36 miles (58km)

Well, the post below details one of the recurring aspects of today's journey. However, it wasn't all like that.

(Note: if you're just reading this for the pictures, you're going to be disappointed. Today, while interesting, was distinctly difficult to take pictures of.)

We started the morning following the River Leven, which flows out of Loch Lomond and is Scotland's fastest flowing river. It's been the site of many and varied textiles industries down the years. Eventually, we joined the path that follows the Forth and Clyde Canal way. We'd been told about this path, which goes from Edinburgh to Glasgow (or vice verse, depending on who you talk to): it's been recently done up, and the canal re-opened I think. We went past a few locks, which meant that James could explain in that condescending manner that girls like how they operated. Exciting. Perhaps the most interesting lock was one which was underneath a road - presumably cheaper than building a higher road bridge?

Just out of Glasgow, we made something of a detour... because the turn-off we required was signposted only by a wooden post about a foot high. We did discover that there was a ferry we could take, from Renfrew (site of our detour) to Paisley (site of our accommodation). Not knowing the times, and determined to be Authentic (or something), we decided to continue on the cycleway and go into Glasgow, out of Glasgow, and then on to Paisley by bike. It was only an additional 18 miles or so.

The ride into Glasgow, along the Clyde, was quite fascinating. I'll be honest: I've always heard of Glasgow as the poorer, more industrial cousin to Edinburgh. And the outskirts were, frankly, feral; lots of glass on the path, rubbish in the long grass on the edges, rundown buildings when we got towards town. Oh, and a bloke being arrested on our path. However - as in so many places, Melbourne included - the docks and waterfront are being remodelled, as shipping no longer comes right into the heart of the city. By bike, the transition from derelict buildings to high-class apartments seemed to happen really quite quickly. And it was very cool to ride past the Glasgow Science Centre, and BBC Scotland - whose entire wall facing the Clyde is window.

We went off track and into Glasgow proper for lunch, because there was nothing on our route and because we were making far better time than we had anticipated. Following the Clyde ever further in, we eventually turned into the city centre and found quite a nice stretch of shops and cafes not too far away. Glasgow quite obviously is much more than the country cousin to Edinburgh; they have a Dr Who exhibition on at the moment!

We caused some amusement amongst the suits and stockings out basking in the sun and eating their lunch along the river by stopping to put on sunscreen; we then crossed the Clyde and headed out of Glasgow proper to Paisley. Our route took us through Pollock Country Park; I have no idea who Pollock was, but there was a golf course and a big old house and a mountain bike course that had James crying for suspension on Henry. Paisley... well. It has an abbey, from the 12th century; and a campus of the University of West Scotland. And a big rambly secondhand bookshop (hello, more Harry Potter). It also has skanks and neds (aka chavs, aka bogans) being scary and shouting at each other, and shops with iron bars on the windows - those shops that are not boarded up, anyway. We're staying in a very pricey place that's really catering for people on the way to/away from the airport, and for people with business at the uni. Frankly, in some ways it feels like an oasis - or perhaps a gated community in the middle of the feral heartland...

We're currently enjoying the lounge, wifi and a book. Normally we like to find a pub etc and meet some locals, but I think tonight we might give it a miss.